Leh, Ladakh IN
Sept. 21 - 24,  2007
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As part of the tourist initiative for Leh, they built this beautiful gate at the entrance to the town. It's built in a traditional Tibetan Buddhist style, but I don't think it had any significance beyond that. If it was built 400 years ago, that would be cool, but building it so tourists will ooh and ah and take pictures (like me) doesn't warrent as much credibility.


One of the streets through the market in Leh . I'm pretty sure the white domes in the background are the mosque. I wanted to get pictures of it up close, but kind of felt wierd doing so. It's currently the month of Ramadan , so there's always someone around the mosque in some kind of state of worship. 


Our cab got to this point and the traffic just stopped. We were close enough to home, so we got out. These people were selling all kinds of nuts along the sidewalk. Through other parts of town they were selling fresh vegtables on the sidewalk. 


 
Another street in town.


There's a bike shop in Leh that actually has mt. bikes. Many of the outfitters in Leh advertise things like Mt. biking, rafting, trekking and mountaineering. 


After a quick stroll through town, we walked back up to the the guest house. When we got back, the couple that had gotten back from their 13 day trek the day before were hanging out in the chairs out front. Amber went to his room, but I sat down with them. Apparently I'm not the only one having problems with the whole tip and rupees thing. We talked for quite a while about what we thought was appropriate or not and what effects it may have on the people serving us and the people they may serve in the futue. Unfortunately we didn't come to any real conclusions, but it was nice to know we were all struggeling with this and had been tipping similarly (right or wrong, I don't know). Dinner came and we all sat down with Amber. It was really nice. They were visiting a few other places in India before they went home. All of it coordinated by the same place I'm using. We had a great time hanging out and talking. I really didn't want it to end, but they all had an early flight and had to retire to pack.

I went back to my room to read my book. I read and read. I'm not sure if I was excited, wired or what, but I couldn't sleep. I just kept reading. I guess it was 1 or 2am when I finally tried to sleep. It didn't work very well. Not sure if it was related, but my stomach started feeling really funny. Then it just started to hurt. Up and to the bathroom, back to bed, back to the bathroom was the routine for the next couple of hours. Somewhere in the middle of that, I heard everyone get up and leave for the airport, then I went back to bed. Finally around breakfast time my stomach was feeling a little better. I felt like crap. I was exhausted and weak, so I tried eating some toast to get something back in me.

A drop off at the airport usually means a pickup for the Snow View, but todays pickup was a little different. David came back with a team of dentists and optometrists. It's was probably 10 or so people. They belonged to an organization that provides free dental and eye care to the children of Leh twice a year. Only a few of them were regulars. The majority were volunteers for this trip only. In addition to the work they would do with the kids, they were all going trekking in one capacity or another. Sounds great huh? I thought so too, till I heard one of the women saying how important it is for the little girls of Leh to have pretty smiles to get married. I'm sorry. Maybe you didn't notice, but this is Leh. They sell fresh vegtables on the sidewalk six inches from the gutter full of animal feces and trash. A pretty smile is the last thing kids in this town need to get married. A healthy smile is one thing, but pretty is in the eye of the beholder. Between comments like that (there were more) and the way I felt, I wanted nothing to do with them. I went back to my room and promptly got sick some more.

The rest of the morning I was either in the bathroom or in bed. When I was in bed, I was fully clothed with every blanket in the room piled on me. It was horrible. I don't remember much of lunch. I may of had some tea. Renting a motorcycle and driving up Khardung La was out of the question. At some point it started pouring. The rain sounded nice on the roof of the guest house.

Somewhere in the middle of the afternoon I got tired of being an invalid and got up to go in town. I wanted to walk around the shops more, possibly buy something and get some more pictures. My head was in a fog, but I went anyway.


I wanted to get two things from the market. I wanted pictures of the women wearing the traditional Tibetan attire and I wanted to buy a couple of these hats. The pictures just were'nt going to happen. As I mentioned beforre, they really didn't like having their pictures taken. You had ot be sneaky. I was in no condition to successfully sneaky.

There were a few shops that had the hats. Some of the them were originals (used) and some were new. I finaly settled on a shop that had two hats I was willing to by. Now it was time to try out my bartering skills. I had been told all kinds of things from you should only 1/10th to 1/50th the price they offer. The guy was offering the hats for Rs.350 each. That's about $9 each. I should have been happy with that and just bought them, but I wanted to try bartering. They say to make your offer. The merchant will usually refuse, so you say thank you and go to leave. At that point the merchant is supposed to reconsider and take the the deal or make a new one. I offered Rs.500 for both. Seemed fair to me. He said no way and went into this whole thing about being end of season and the hats were already discounted - blah, blah, blah. I said ok and went to leave, at which point he counter offered and asked what my best price was. I went the stubborn route and repeated Rs. 500. He still didn't like that. He started at Rs. 650 and worked his way down. I stuck to my guns at Rs. 500. As I was stepping out the door, he offered Rs. 550. I should have taken it. That's only $1 over what I was asking. Keep in mind we're bartering between $17 and $12. In the States, it just wouldn't matter. I would have bought them either way (that's 2 hats for under $20!). I didn't take his offer. I left. I'm not sure if it was because I was sick, or I'm really this dumb, but I should have bought the hats for Rs. 550.

I didn't take this picture. I found it on the internet for the sake of an example

 


After the shop incident I went back to my room and went back to bed. I slept till dinner where I only ate a little bit of rice. I was back in bed by 8pm. I woke up at 11pm feeling like I'd gotten a full nights rest. Too bad I had six more hours before I was supposed to get up. After waking up off and on throughout the night, I finally got up at 5am to have some coffee and catch my flight. I snapped this picture of the dining room area before I left that morning.

Security at the airport was crazy, but the flight was uneventful. I finally got back to my apartment and prepared to go to work when I got a bloody nose. The air in Leh was really dry. My nose, lips and tongue were cracked and painful most of the weekend. Back in the moist air of the Delhi
 area, my nose decided to let loose. The bathroom looked like a murder scene as I tried to move back and forth between the sink and toilet paper. 

 


So that was Leh. Can't wait to go back and actually do some Trekking.










&nbs;

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