Two years ago someone pointed out how
crappy our deck railings
were
. Being that we don't have kids and don't
have enough people over hanging out on the deck, we ignored
the complaint and went about our way.
It's true the
railings were/are crappy, but so's the whole deck. The planks
go in different directions, there's only a single rim joist
around the perimeter and it's inadequately supported. That
doesn't mean the entire thing is unsafe, but the railings were
definitely iffy.
When we decided to have new windows
put in, we knew the railing would interfere and have to be
removed. What better time/excuse to replace the whole
thing?
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The first section to go was of course
near the
window
.
Since the windows were being replaced while
I was away on business, I had to do this part before
I left. That was the middle of June. Now it's August if that
provides any kind of time line for
you.
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Before we tore it all down, we had to
decide what to replace it with, so Jen and I headed to Home
Depot
.
They make prefab deck railing units,
that seemed like the way to go. They would be quick and easy
and that's perfect for all the projects we already have going
this summer. Unfortunately the prefab stuff was more
expensive then the stuff we could make ourselves, so we bought
all that we needed to put up newer version of what we had
- lattice style railings.
Once home, doing the math and
looking at our old lattice style setup, Jen decided she didn't
want lattice and the prefab was worth it for the price. So I
took everything back, returned it and went to buy
the prefab.
Now the problem with any kind of
lumber purchase is you have to sort through the pile looking
for the best pieces. If I'm going to spend $15 on a piece of
lattice, it better well be the best piece of lattice they have.
As for the prefab deck rails, they had 10, we needed 11, and
only 4 were acceptable quality. I called Jen, gave her
the bad news, and decided on making it ourselves, though
not lattice style.
The point of this project is to make the railing safe, but
keep everything cheap. We'd like/need to redo the entire
deck, but not now. It's too expensive and there
are higher
priorities.
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Demolition is generally fun, but around
here you end up finding all kinds of things that are wrong
with the project. In this case I found carriage bolts that
weren't galvanized and now rusted. That's not so bad. Just cut
them right? Sure, but using a cutoff wheel throwing
sparks next to a 500ga propane
tank made me a bit nervous. Luckily I'm
still here to say the tank doesn't
leak.
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So the old railing, in addition to
coming apart, had a serious wobble. There were two main factors
for that. The first is as you see here, the deck
planks weren't cut flush to the rim joist. The rail posts
were essentially pushed a half inch off of the rim joist
from the deck plank under it. The half inch space between the
post and joist was filled with spacer pieces. Over time
the spacers rotted and fell out leaving the post
to wiggle with that half inch space. The first thing
I did once the old post was removed is cut
the plank flush to the
joist.
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The second
reason
for the rail wobble is that there's only
one rim joist and it's soft. The rim joist should be at
least doubled. It should be two 2"x6"s sandwiched together to
form a 4"x6" beam - at least. With only a single
2"x6" over time the board will get soft, warp, etc., so no matter
how flush my rail post or how tight it is to the joist, the
joist itself will flex giving the new posts/railing a
wobble
.
Unfortunately I can't just add a
second board to the rim joist. It's one of those things that
would require a complete reconstruction, or at the very least,
tearing out all the lattice underneath, scabbing in an
additional 2"x6" and putting new lattice
back.
At the time of this picture, I thought my
little plate on the backside would suffice, but it did not.
I've since come up with a new plan, you'll see
later.
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Here are the first
three posts.
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And here is an example of how screwed up
things are with the
deck
. These 4"x4" beams are going every which
way, but aren't actually connected to the deck. The deck
surface is all at the same level, but the beams underneath are
not.
The only
double board joist is cut to nearly nothing where it
attaches to the house to clear the dryer
vent.
The issues
go on and on. I just hope it holds until we can
replace all of it.
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Once the
posts are up, they get connected. It took me a while to figure
out how I was going to do this. At first I thought I'd use
little metal brackets and nail the whole thing
together. Considering the number of nails, I looked into
getting a nail gun. When the guy at the store gave me a hard
time about galvanized, blah, blah, blah building codes, I
decided to ask my cousin Gus. He does this sort of thing for a
living.
Sure enough Gus had all kinds of good ideas.
First was to forget nails and use screws - predrill and
counter sink them. Also use the good screws. There's some high
quality screws out there that make the project easier and
stronger over
time.
He was right on all accounts.
At first I thought the predrill/counter sink idea was silly.
It's only a deck. What's the difference? Boy was I wrong.
The first couple of screws you see here went in awful and
split the wood. From here out, I did what I supposed to
and things worked a lot better. As far as the screws go, get
the nicer ones. It's totally worth your time and money. I
bought some of the generic ones to fill in a couple of places.
Every time I use one, I just end up making a mess and cussing
up a storm.
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Gus also stressed the importance of
having a tight fit for your railing
cap
. I'm hoping six
clamps was enough to qualify for tight. Considering how warped
most of the boards are, I thought about going out
and getting more clamps. I mean, when can you have too many
clamps?
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- More
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